What needs to be checked, changed and adjusted.

This article will outline the required checks that should be done for the standard 10,000- mile service for a Harley-Davidson motorcycle. Although we are trying to be a thorough as possible, keep in mind that this article does not replace the service manual of your specific Harley-Davidson or any other Big Twin motorcycle.

1. Tire Tread. The minimum is 1/32", but change them before they get to 1/16". Also inspect tires for damage, such as slits or cuts in sidewalls or nails in treads. 

2. Tire Pressure. Check your owner’s manual for specifics on your motorcycle.

3. Spoke Wheels or Mags. If you have spoke wheels they need to be inspected for tightness. Grabbing and squeezing each cluster is an easy way to find loose spokes which can be tightened at the nipple. Also check for broken spokes and dented rims. Both need to be fixed. If your motorcycle has mag wheels they must be checked for rim damage such as cracks and dents.

4. Drain & fill. Drain & fill the engine oil and replace the oil filter.

5. Drain & fill. Drain & fill the transmission fluid.

6. Drain & fill. Drain & fill the primary system.

7. Primary Chain. Remove primary inspection cover and check the tension of the primary chain.

8. Clutch Lever Play. The clutch lever play may need to be adjusted. Make sure there is about 1/16" of play in the cable at the lever.

9. Fork Oil. The fork oil must be drained in both legs and refilled. Since different models require different amounts of fork oil to refill, please check your motorcycle’s manual. 

10. Spark Plugs. Pull and replace your motorcycle’s old spark plugs. Make sure plugs are gapped and torque them to spec.

11. Fuel Filter. If your motorcycle is equipped with a carburetor, there’s a fuel filter located above the petcock, inside the fuel tank. This should be cleaned and or replaced, depending on the condition. You must drain the gas tank to do this.

12. Fuel Lines. Inspect your fuel lines for softness or cracking and replace if needed.

13. Throttle Cables. Check both throttle cables. If there is too much slack at the throttle, adjust them. Ideally, you want a little play at the control and the clutch.

14. Rear Drive Shaft Belt. The rear drive shaft belt should be inspected for any kind of damage and the tension checked. Check your motorcycle’s manual for the bike’s spec.

15. Pads & Rotors. Brake pads & rotors should be inspected for wear and replaced if needed.If the pads are low, the level in the master cylinder will be low. Don’t top them off, as they will be overfilled when you replace the pads.

16. Brake Fluid. Once you know the condition of the motorcycle’s brake pads, you can check the fluid level in the master cylinder. If the fluid appears murky, change it, but sure to use the proper DOT type for your motorcycle. 

17. Battery. Make sure both battery terminals are clean and tight. Check the ground wires where they attach to your motorcycle’s frame. Then use a voltmeter to check the battery’s standing voltage which should be at least 12 volts. After starting the bike, check again. If the charging system is working, it should read 13-14 volts.

18. Bulbs & Fuses. Visually inspect all bulbs and fuses and check the operation of all electrical equipment at this time. (Headlight, brake light, turn signals, etc.)

19. Hardware. Check all hardware on the motorcycle for tightness. (I.E.: The kickstand mounting bolt, which does loosen over time) This includes the swingarm axle nut (for Softails) and the wheel axle hardware.

20. Grommets. Inspect and tighten all components on your motorcycle mounted with rubber grommets, such as the windshield on a Road King.

21. Motor Mounts. All three motor mounts tend to loosen over time, so be sure to tighten them as you check all the fasteners. Some mechanics prefers to remove these bolts, put fresh Loctite on them, and then torque them to spec.

22. The Exhaust. Another very important system to check for fastener integrity is the exhaust. (I.E.: The mounting bracket on a Road King’s rear header pipe, where is mounts to the motorcycle’s chassis has a tendency to come loose.)

23. Air Cleaner. Remove and inspect. Replace if needed. 

24. Lubrication. Finish the job by lubricating such items as the gas cap and hinges on your saddlebags with any type of silicone spray lube.

You’re done and ready for 10,000 more miles!

(Sources: AIM & Harley-Davidson)